A Nair Mess lunch

   

We made several plans to go to Nair Mess. Warned by friends to be there at a certain time otherwise there would be a huge crowd or the food might run out, going there just never seemed to work out. And then it happened.

Situated in a nondescript lane off Wallajah Road at Chepauk, we wondered for a minute if we had reached the right place. Street vendors point the way and there it was - almost at the other end of the lane. The “mess” is a largish room with wooden tables and chairs; the place is full of people who have come only for the business of eating. We were lucky to get a table right next to the cashier.

Citron pickle; cabbage poriyal; pumpkin kootu

Banana leaves are placed on the table, glasses of water appear. You sprinkle some water from your glass onto the leaf, push the water around to do a rudimentary cleaning of the leaf and lift and shake the leaf so that the excess water drips off. Almost immediately, a bit of citron pickle, cabbage poriyal and lentil and yellow pumpkin kootu are spooned onto the leaf. There's also a bowl of plain rice.

Rice; fish curry

We order 2 fish meals and a plate of mutton biryani. The fish meal consists of rice and the accompaniments described above and a small bowl of fish curry. They also serve rasam and sambar if you ask for it. The mutton biryani is served with onion raita. We also order fried fish, prawns, sora puttu, mutton curry and chicken Chettinad.

The cabbage is speckled with grated coconut and tastes, well, like plain cooked cabbage. I like the yellow pumpkin, it’s thick and has a slight sweetness to it. The fish curry is so watery that it tastes bland and if not for the piece of fish in it, one wouldn’t even know what it was.

Prawn fry; sora puttu

As for the sides, the prawn masala and sora puttu are served in tiny little dishes, more like lids of containers. I can’t bring myself to taste the shark that’s flaked and mixed with coconut scrapings – had enough of it during my stay at hostels. The prawn tastes nice so we order a second portion, this one has a strong coconutty taste and the prawns are fresher than the first lot. 

Fried fish

The fried fish is good – palm sized and the thinnest slices of fish I’ve ever seen - they could give slim mobile phones and watches a run for their money!! The fish is fresh, lightly coated with masala and fried just right – crisp but still moist.

Mutton biryani; raita and mutton curry

Chicken Chettinad

I tried a spoon of the biryani rice. It was nice - the long grain rice is uniformly yellowish and a little strong on the flavor of cinnamon, more like a southern Tamilnadu style biryani. The friend who ordered it said the meat was tender. The mutton curry was more like a stew and wasn't quite an appropriate accompaniment to either kind of rice.

We also ordered the spicy but delicious chicken Chettinad. That, along with the fried fish were the saving graces.

The food definitely didn’t taste like a Kerala meal, notwithstanding the name of the establishment. Of all that we ordered, other than the prawns, nothing was cooked in coconut oil (I know some folks can’t stand the taste of it). 

Nair Mess has a lot more on the menu - brain fry, omelette, mutton fry which are among the more popular items. It also has a very loyal clientele. 

Our bill came to 1111/ and that included the price of 4 small bottles of soft drinks. Service is quick and efficient, I guess they are used to the crowd by now. A meal for 2 should cost around 600/.

Nair Mess 

22, Mohammed Abdullah 2nd Street

Opp Chepauk Stadium

Triplicane, Chennai 600005.

044 28420850

Read more »

Stimulate the Five Sen5es at Westin Velachery

What can one expect when one learns that the executive chef of a star hotel has worked in hotels in Indonesia, Singapore and China and some other countries? A quick scan through the menu confirms it - Asian specialties. Yay!!

This year, on Chinese New Year's day, a celebration of sorts took place at Westin Hotel Velachery when the Chennai-based hotel opened its chic Chinese restaurant Five Sen5es. In an earlier avatar, the space was known as EEST, well-known for its dimsums. Although Five Sen5es is labelled a Sichuan specialty restaurant, the menu lists several pan- Asian specialties and other Chinese regional offerings.

Seating is arranged in 2 large circles. The inner circle where we are seated, reminds me of a birdcage, wooden slats demarcate it from the outer arrangement. On one wall are panels with Chinese characters and a dragon weaves its way between them, its eye a pop of light and colour. On another side, a glass wall allows the diner to look into the kitchen. Off and on, flames leap out from the woks and that adds to the drama. Even though it is midweek, the restaurant is pretty full. Oriental music plays over the system, thankfully we don't have to shout over the music to be heard. Several tiny laughing Buddhas and other Chinese curios are stacked on the shelves of a room divider. It's a space radiating peace and harmony, just the setting to enjoy an Oriental meal.

Savoury darsaan

Vegetable futomaki; togarashi salmon; California roll

We chat with Executive Chef Yatendra Rawat about work, travelling and ingredients. What's interesting is that there is something on the menu from every country he has worked in. We start with an assortment of sushi - togarashi salmon, California roll studded with roe and vegetable futomaki for my vegetarian friend. Served in boat shaped trays, all three are really good but the wasabi could do with a little more punch.

Scallion pancakes

The scallion pancakes, speckled with scallions and a hint of 5 spice powder, are crisp, good enough to be eaten on its own. Chef Rawat tells us that in China, they are cooked in lard which make them even more flaky.

Soto ayam

Soto ayam, an Indonesian soup is what I'm served. The thin soup with the flavour of lemongrass and fried onion is delicious. There's chicken as well as tiny cubes of potato and a quail egg in the soup.

Hot basil fried rice

The main course is Hot Basil Fried Rice. Oh yes, the sliced chillies in them are hot indeed and it's a winner of a dish. The little pearly grains have fragrance from both the jasmine rice and the mild aniseed aroma and flavour of basil. Bits of vegetables add texture to the whole.

Tofu in Chengu sauce

Tofu in Chengu sauce has deep fried cubes of cotton tofu that are crisp on the outside while the inside is soft and the whole is coated with the slightly spicy, slightly tangy, slightly sweet sauce. Utterly utterly delish!

Stir fried greens

Cantonese-style stir fried greens has bok choy, broccoli, snow peas and zucchini. The greens, seasoned with garlic and sauces, are perfectly cooked and retain their crunch and colour.

Sichuan twice cooked pork

Sichuan twice cooked pork is tender and there's capsicum, onion slices and Napa cabbage that make it a dish of textures. It's a little spicy and I love the dash of 5 spice powder that adds another dimension to the dish.

Whole steamed fish in black bean sauce

A whole snapper steamed in black bean sauce makes its entrance. The black bean sauce is a perfect contrast in every way to the fish - the delicate, moist, white flesh of the fish goes perfectly well with the savoury heartiness of the black bean. This one deserves top marks for balance of flavours. And just like how it is served abroad, the fish has its tail intact.

Pumpkin pudding

We have a trio of desserts to taste - Portuguese egg tart, pumpkin pudding and flourless chocolate cake. The clear winner is the pumpkin pudding - the chilled medley of coconut milk, brown sugar and super-smooth pumpkin puree is fascinating. We are told it's the most popular dessert on the menu and that's not surprising at all. The tart pastry is a bit of a let down as it wasn't crisp but the custard filling tasted nice, though it was not the egg yellow colour it usually is. It's served with a scoop of ice cream. We were asked to identify the special ingredient in the chocolate cake. At first bite, it tasted like a velvety smooth marquise but with the second bite, the flavour of lemongrass was discernible.

Portuguese egg tart; lemongrass flourless cake

A meal for 2 at Five Sen5es, without alcohol, is 2500/++
Five Sen5es is open only for dinner, from 7 - 11 pm.

Westin Chennai Velachery
154, Velachery Main Road, Velachery
Chennai 600042.

Do call 044 66333777 for reservations.

Read more »

Fish and nuts

Anchovies or ikan bilis is a very popular snack in South East Asian countries. In fact, it's a very popular pizza topping in the West. Nasi lemak - rice cooked in coconut milk is never complete without a serving of these tiny fried crisp fishies. They are rich in calcium and minerals.

Peanuts and anchovies are a match made in heaven. They're tossed together in a paste made of chillies, garlic, onion and belachan (shrimp paste).  I love the flavour that kaffir lime imparts so that too gets added in. Almost every supermarket in Singapore has packs of these ready to eat snacks. The problem is that they do not last long - they get devoured that fast. Now I've taken to bringing packs of dry anchovies back with me so that I can make it anytime the craving hits.

These fish are also available in Chennai but you may have to pinch off the heads before using them. Not really necessary though. Wash them quickly and drain in a colander.

Once you're done with the cooking, watch how fast they disappear! They can liven up a boring meal and are fantastic with drinks. The best thing is that you can play around with the quantity of fish and nuts. In my family, they like more nuts...


Here's my rendition of the popular bar snack.

Fish and nuts

100 gm dried anchovies
500 gm raw peanuts
8 -10 dried chillies, soaked in warm water for 15 minutes
6 shallots
4 cloves garlic
1/2 tsp shrimp paste (belachan, optional)
1 tsp tamarind paste
2 kaffir lime leaves (optional)
Salt
4 tbsp sugar
Oil

Method
Wash the anchovies, drain in a colander.
Spread out for about 10 minutes on kitchen towels.

Heat a cup of oil in a wok, fry the peanuts on medium heat till light gold ( I wait for them to "pop"and then turn the heat to medium.
Remove onto kitchen towels.
Add more oil into the wok, heat oil to medium hot and fry the fish in 4 batches.
Fry the fish till crisp, remove onto kitchen towels and do subsequent batches.

Grind together the chillies, shallots, garlic and prawn paste to a fine paste with a little water.
Clean the wok, fill with 3 tablespoons of fresh oil.

Heat it and fry the ground paste and tamarind paste. Add in the kaffir lime leaves.
When the paste has been well sauteed but not completely dry, add in fried nuts, fish, salt to taste and sugar.

Stir well to combine.
Cool and bottle, store in the fridge.

Read more »

InterContinental Hotel Mahabalipuram Resort - luxury meets serenity

It's a magical moonlit night, stars twinkle up in the sky. We stand on a walkway lit by tiny lights, the other end of which is almost invisible in the dimness. There's a gentle breeze and the faint sound of the sea. I close my eyes and will my ears to hear the tinkle of ghungroos, will my nose to catch a whiff of jasmine flowers and imagine a dancer coming out of the shadows... Of course, no such thing happens but the setting is just perfect for such a scenario.

The walkway and landscaped garden

We're at the InterContinental Hotel Mahabalipuram Resort, Chennai on the East Coast Road, a short distance away from the town of Mahabalipuram. The driveway snakes around high fortress-like walls. Alighting at the foyer, we take a minute to take it all in. The resort is built around a quadrangle, metallic sunflowers grow out of a waterscape that lies to one side, a courtyard with a lawn and the pool on the other. All around the quadrangle are the guest rooms. Soft focus lights are the only source of illumination...and the moon, of course.
It must be the resort's proximity to the Shore Temple, the red tiles on the stairs, granite walls and the old world charm of a central courtyard that helps my imagination run wild.

The courtyard and entrances to guest rooms

The walkway traverses the entire length of the resort and we walk across to the other end. It's all quiet with an almost zen-like quality. Just beyond the resort's boundary wall is the Bay of Bengal. If it's tranquillity you're looking for, this is the place to be. We go down the broad stairs, through the landscaped garden and check out the pool, come up another flight of stairs into the lobby and up another to the bar.

The waterscape with sunflowers

Melting Pot is the all day restaurant at ICH, brightly lit and busy. For us, a table has been set up on the platform that surrounds the waterscape. There are a couple of tables that are open to the sky but we have a "roof" over our heads. Good thing too for in the middle of the meal, it started to rain! Chef Ashish who once worked at the Ananda Spa at the Himalayas comes over to talk to us and introduce us to the 7-course tasting menu he has put together.

Ginger Cosmopolitan

Star anise based palate cleanser

The palate cleanser is amber-hued and has the aroma of star anise and a gentle flavour that glides down the throat.

Focaccia with dips

Palate cleansed, we dig into the house made focaccia with chick pea puree and a tomato dip. The bread is warm, the dips are smooth and addictive and they bring us more of it.

Assorted vegetables in sesame sauce

Shadows surround us, it is difficult to see what is in the bowl the amuse-bouche is served in but we're told it's assorted vegetables in sesame sauce. The greens are crisp, but not because they have been fried but blanched. I can taste not only sesame sauce but also something akin to peanut - a beautiful creamy blend of pastes!

Prawn stuffed calamari

There's a delicious prawn stuffed calamari. The prawn paste is moist and perfectly cooked and the freshness of the seafood is pleasurable.

Duck & scallops with cauliflower puree and chips

House smoked duck and scallops are served with a cauliflower puree and cauliflower chips. The duck has a thin layer of fat, which keeps it moist. The scallops are tender and once again, the crisp chips provide textural contrast to the other elements.

Seafood cappuccino

Pea soup or a seafood cappuccino - I'm so glad I opted for the latter. Served warm with foam on top and a Parmesan wafer, it was exquisite. The crustacean flavour shone through and every delicious sip was savoured.

Poached prawn with miso, popcorn and edamame

Orange juice poached prawn with miso had a single prawn, curried popcorn, crisp lotus root slices, shimeji mushrooms and edamame served with a drizzle of miso. This dish was a fine play of textures and flavours, the tang of orange was barely discernible but the savouriness of the miso brought out every nuance of the prawn and vegetables;

Roasted baby sea bass

Pan roasted baby sea bass came with curried cream citrus salad and mango salsa. Served on a stone slab, the sauce, enriched with coconut milk was reminiscent of Kerala's meen moilee. The fish flaked beautifully, the crisp skin was a delight to bite into.

Tenderloin with beet puree, ash potato and togarashi

Tenderloin served with ash potatoes, beetroot puree, more ash and togarashi. I would have liked the meat to have been more tender but every other element on the plate was delicious. The togarashi was spicy, peppering whatever was dipped into it with bits of heat.

Textures of chocolate and banana ice cream

Dessert was all about textures of chocolate and fruits that went best with it. There was white and dark chocolate ganache, strawberries, an orange segment, chocolate crumbs and banana ice cream. Except for the ice cream which I couldn't bring myself to taste, everything else was wickedly delicious.

A meal for two at the Melting Pot would be around 1000/++ per head. On weekends, the buffet charges are 1499/++ for lunch and 1799/++ for dinner. A customised meal like the one we had without alcohol would be around 2500/++. If you like Chef Ashish to work his magic on a similar menu as we did, do have a word with him. With Valentine's day coming up, I cannot think of a more romantic setting.

ICH Mahabalipuram Resort
No. 212 East Coast Road
Nemelli Village, Perur Post Office
Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu.
+91 44 71720101

Read more »

M'Bessy - at the Republic of Gastronomy

Walk into M'Bessy and what catches your eye is the huge chandelier. Then you see a wall with the map of the world done with corks. Vintage European-inspired furniture dominates the dining area, and to the left, plated desserts looking enticing in the pastry counter and a pizza oven all fired up for its next order.

Flags of the world

Renovations are almost over at Esthell Hotel, Adyar and the city's newest Continental resto-bar is housed in it. We go up the stairs to the said bar and in the vestibule like foyer hang framed flags of different countries. Tiny ones. Great idea for a play on the word M'Bessy though it is actually a reference to Bessy Beach.

We were a group of 6 and considering it was a weeknight, many of the other tables are occupied.

Spirits on display

We're told M'Bessy has the largest bar in the city and one of the most extensive collection of spirits. Seating is mixed, high tables and bar stools, couches and even a private room which reminds me of a train compartment.

Maid in India; M'Bessy sour

Twisted Clover; Royal Tea Punch

We tried 4 of their most popular cocktails. Bacardi-based Maid in India had a big block of ice it in - ice cubes would melt too fast and dilute the drink; Beefeater gin-based Twisted Clover, my favourite of the evening - M'Bessy Sour with Black Label as the base and vodka-based Royal Tea Punch that arrived with a lighted stick of cinnamon, smoke and plenty of drama.

Citrus Junction; Ginger Cosmos

Beat the Heat - non-alcoholic mint julep and was it cold!!

They also have a few mocktails on offer. Interestingly, some of the drinks are decorated with house-made dehydrated fruit slices.

Mezze platter

The menu has plenty to order from; we try the mezze platter with lavash and pita triangles, served with 3 dips, the best of which is the baba ganoush.

Broccoli Polonaise

There's a plate of Broccoli Polonaise - florets of broccoli topped with cheese sauce that's been grilled and served with salad and yummy bruschetta. It's so good that we order a second one.

Dynamite Prawns; M'Bessy Spiced Chicken on skewers

'Bessy Spiced Chicken was served with a blue cheese dip. The chicken was tender but somewhat bland, the dip was just what it needed. The Dynamite Prawns was also really good, loved its freshness though it didn't quite live up to its moniker.

We go down into the fine dine restaurant below. On one wall, hang platters that are painted in gray and black. The platters represent the ones that are used for food service. I love the grays that dominate the room because it a beautiful background canvas for the food that is served.

Pizza Bianca; Pollo Fumet

 

We start with 2 kinds of pizzas - the Bianca with sundried tomatoes and the pronounced flavour of blue cheese (delish!) and Pollo Fumet with smoked chicken, scarmoza cheese, rucola and pesto. Both have thin crusts. There was a risotto but the rice was slightly underdone though it had a flavour that could grow on you.

The chicken steak that came next was served with fries, chunky steamed veg and salad. While the meat was fairly tender, the flavour of cumin was quite dominant for a meat as delicate as chicken.

The Australian lamb chops were overcooked and the the bone had not been frenched properly resulting in the meat being charred in places. The hickory flavoured sauce was delicious though.

Chocolate terrine; banoffee pie

Deconstructed tiramisu

The meal ended with 3 desserts - a bannoffee pie (personally I never eat anything that has a banana in it but the others seemed to enjoy it), a nice chocolate terrine but the best was a deconstructed tiramisu. The smooth marscapone-laden sabayon provided a wonderful contrast to the coffee flavoured squares of cake.      

While M'Bessy's bar menu is well thought out and varied, the restaurant's menu needs a little fine tuning. The location of the hotel couldn't be better and with a dynamic managing team in place, things can only get better.

A meal for two without alcohol should work out to around 1800/ ++
M'Bessy Kitchen and Bar is located at No. 1, Royal Enclave
Besant Avenue,
Adyar, Chennai.
Phone: 044 24463311

*Update
This restaurant is now shut down

Read more »